Savoury depth rather than saltiness — the umami hits before the fish does.
Where this dish comes from
Salted anchovy is the direct descendant of garum, the fermented fish sauce that seasoned nearly every Roman dish and was traded in amphorae from Pompeii to Hadrian's Wall. When the Empire's garum works fell silent, the salting barrels remained, and the Ligurian and Cantabrian coasts kept the craft alive through the Middle Ages.
Butter as a preserving medium is northern rather than southern. Before refrigeration, potting under clarified butter was the standard English and Irish method for keeping fish and shellfish through a season — the ancestor of potted shrimp and of this jar.
Anchovy butter — beurre d'anchois — is codified in Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire (1903) as a compound butter of the classical repertoire. It survives in the great grill rooms: it is what makes the steak at Bocca di Lupo and at Hawksmoor taste the way it does, and Fergus Henderson's St. John made potted, salted fish fashionable again in the 1990s.
How we make it
Twelve months is not a marketing number. Under six, the fillet is still fishy and firm; somewhere past ten it turns nutty and slightly sweet as the proteins break down into free amino acids. That is the flavour we are buying.
The butter is churned from cream ripened forty-eight hours, which gives it a slight lactic tang that stops the anchovy reading as pure salt. We set it fast and cold so the fillets stay where the packer laid them.
Salt-cure, then butter-set
12 months cure
01Spring anchovies layered in salt in wooden barrels and weighted for twelve months.
02Hand-boned under cold running water, then dried on linen.
03Folded into cultured butter churned from 48-hour ripened cream.
04Packed and blast-set so the fillets stay suspended rather than sinking.
Room temperature on hot toast, or melted over a steak at the last second.
THE INGREDIENT LEDGER
Every defining ingredient, named: who grew or caught it, where, when it was taken, what it has meant to the people who kept it, and what it does for you.
Salt-cured anchovies
Caught April 2025, cured twelve months
Farm / fishery
Hand-filleted in a Santoña salting house
Region
Cantabrian Sea
History
Roman garum was fermented anchovy; the modern Cantabrian cure descends directly from Sicilian salters who settled the coast in the 1880s.
Why it is good for you
Concentrated omega-3s, calcium and selenium in very small servings.
Nutrition, roughly
Per 10 g: 21 kcal · 3 g protein · high sodium by design.
Cultured cream butter
Churned weekly, winter 2025
Farm / fishery
Small herd, pasture-fed, churned from ripened cream
Region
Normandy, France
History
Normandy butter has been graded and prized since the eleventh century; culturing predates refrigeration and was the way cream was kept sweet.
Why it is good for you
Butyrate from cultured cream supports gut lining; pasture butter carries vitamin K2 and beta-carotene.
Nutrition, roughly
Per tablespoon: 102 kcal · 12 g fat · vitamin A, K2.
Nutrition figures are typical values for the ingredient itself and are given as a guide, not as a dietary claim. Harvest dates refer to the batch printed on your lid.